Rolex - Submariner 124060 No Date 904L 41mm SS/SS Black THBF SH3230
Steel · Black dial · Steel bracelet · Ceramic (unidirectional) bezel
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THB Factory Rolex Black Submariner 124060 No Date, with 72 Hours Power Reserve SH3230 Automatic Movement!
Review of Rolex Submariner No Date 41mm 124060
The Rolex Submariner 41 mm No-Date Ref. 124060, released in 2020, is the first update to the purist Submariner line in 12 years. It maintains the classic Submariner aesthetic while implementing subtle refinements—most notably a 1 mm increase in case diameter to 41 mm, slimmer lugs, and a 1 mm-wider Oyster bracelet with Rolex’s Glidelock system—alongside the new in-house Caliber 3230 featuring the Chronergy escapement and a 70-hour power reserve. Reviews across leading watch publications praise its blend of heritage and incremental innovation, noting improved ergonomics, upgraded performance, and the enduring appeal of the no-date dial . Although virtually identical in silhouette to its predecessor, the 124060 is regarded as an evolutionary step that refines what collectors already love about the Submariner—all while remaining almost impossible to buy at retail.
Case & Design
The 124060’s Oystersteel case has grown from 40 mm to 41 mm, yet thanks to the slimmer, more tapered lugs it actually feels more balanced and slightly more compact on the wrist compared to the previous model. Rolex retains its signature 904L Oystersteel, offering superior corrosion resistance and a robust yet refined finish. Water resistance remains 300 m, underpinned by the Triplock winding crown and solid case construction, ensuring the same professional-grade diving capabilities as before.
Movement & Performance
Under the hood, the Submariner 124060 debuts Caliber 3230, which introduces Rolex’s proprietary Chronergy escapement for enhanced energy efficiency and resistance to magnetic fields. The movement also incorporates a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, delivering Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer accuracy of ±2 seconds per day and a 70-hour power reserve—an upgrade from the former 48 hours.
Bracelet & Clasp
Rolex has widened the Oyster bracelet’s center links by 1 mm, improving wrist fill and balance. The Oysterlock safety clasp is now equipped with the Glidelock system, allowing up to 20 mm of tool-free micro-adjustments in 2 mm increments—ideal for diver’s wet suits or fluctuations in wrist size.
Dial, Bezel & Legibility
The gloss-black no-date dial preserves the Submariner’s signature symmetry, featuring large Chromalight hour markers and hands infused with long-lasting luminescent material for excellent low-light readability. The unidirectional rotating bezel uses a black Cerachrom insert with platinum-coated numerals and graduations, offering both scratch resistance and precision timing.
Wearability & Comfort
Enthusiasts consistently highlight the 124060’s outstanding comfort: the optimized case proportions and wider, well-balanced bracelet make it feel neither too heavy nor too light on the wrist. Hodinkee notes that despite the millimeter-scale changes, the watch “feels a lot like the old Sub – which is to say, exactly right”.
Pros and Cons
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| • Caliber 3230 with Chronergy escapement and 70 h reserve | • Absence of a date window may frustrate some users |
| • Slimmer lugs and redesigned 41 mm case enhance ergonomics | • Near-identical appearance offers little visual novelty |
| • Wider Oyster bracelet with Glidelock fine adjustment | • Retail availability is virtually nonexistent |
| • Timeless no-date symmetry and iconic Submariner styling |
Conclusion
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 exemplifies how Rolex perfects rather than reinvents. With its refined case proportions, cutting-edge Caliber 3230, and improved bracelet and clasp, it remains the definitive no-date dive watch for purists—if you can actually find one. Its enduring design and mechanical upgrades make it a seamless evolution of Rolex’s most iconic sports model.
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